• Crashumbc@lemmy.world
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    7 days ago

    Having worked in IT for 17 years. I don’t trust any MFer that uses their IT experience as a reason to do something.

      • chatokun@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        6 days ago

        Not all of us will do it to the same degree though. IT security has always been a sliding scale between security and convenience. The most secure data is stored in a locked safe without being turned on or connected to anything. That’s not very practical, so we make concessions based on how often we need such data and other convenience metrics.

        I’m not as paranoid as the OP, though I agree with some of the stuff said. Reasonable security measures are fine; you don’t need to look like a digital version of a prepper with a bunker, for most people.

        Edit: for instance I don’t use my TV all that much, but it is a “smart” TV, meaning it has apps that connect to Internet, and I have some online libraries.

    • ElectricVocalist@jlai.lu
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      7 days ago

      It seems like half of the people claiming they work in this field actually struggle more than the average person

  • arc99@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    As a general rule, if you buy “smart” anything where it requires an internet connection and a cloud service to function it will be bitrotten within 5 years and dead within 10. And that’s assuming the company survives so long and is bothered to support it. That’s from planned obsolescence and the ongoing cost of supporting the platform when they have something new to sell. And while things can benefit from an internet connection, if its white goods then run a mile.

    I think forward thinking companies could actually gain a lot of free publicity and sales if they openly pledged that their software was in escrow and would automatically release after a period of time and/or as a failsafe if the company discontinued the product and/or they went bust.

    • Sabata@ani.social
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      6 days ago

      it will be bitrotten within 5 years and dead with 10

      Worse, it could get bought out and converted to a Meta, Google, or Amazon product.

    • piccolo@sh.itjust.works
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      7 days ago

      It should be required that companies either maintain their services perpetual or release the software with a permissive license to allow users to maintain their own service.

  • stupidcasey@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    You left your WRT open?

    I jest but you should be using OPNsense, OpenWRT is so old and OPNsense has many more features.

    • John@lemmy.ml
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      6 days ago

      Yes, so they can change it while they are away from home … for some reason.

      • Tenderizer@aussie.zone
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        6 days ago

        Because it takes time for an air conditioner to cool down the place, and it wastes energy to keep it running for 8 hours while you’re at work.

        • John@lemmy.ml
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          6 days ago

          Mine has a simple program that adjusts based on a few times per day (overnight, during the day, evening). I don’t need to control it from my phone while away from home.

  • Crashumbc@lemmy.world
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    6 days ago

    A big issue is, IT is a very broad field with many parts extremely niche and disconnected from each other.

    It’s like saying “work in science” that could mean anything.

    I’ve met more than a few programmers that were above average, but could barely turn on their computer.

    I’ve had many discussions with friends, saying I should work on servers or desktops when my IT experience is in medical databases and interfaces (HL7)…

  • rem26_art@fedia.io
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    8 days ago

    swap out those mechanicals windows for mechanical linux and then we’ll talk

  • AbsolutelyNotAVelociraptor@piefed.social
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    8 days ago

    In Spanish, we have a saying: “En casa de herrero, cuchara de palo”.
    A rough translation would be “in the blacksmith’s house you’ll find wood spoons”. It’s not a new thing, it’s been like that since ancient times.

    • Korhaka@sopuli.xyz
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      8 days ago

      Is that the same thing? The impression I get is that OPs post is about the IT worker actively distrusting smart tech. While I assume your example is more that the blacksmith doesn’t bother with making metal spoons for himself and using what ever he had already, which would be more comparable to a network engineer still using the ISPs shitty router.

      • AbsolutelyNotAVelociraptor@piefed.social
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        8 days ago

        We use it when, for any reason, a person who could easily use something related to their field, doesn’t use it. What it means is that if someone who could be using something because they know how it works, isn’t using it, there must be a reason.

        • Korhaka@sopuli.xyz
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          8 days ago

          Ahh, the impression I got is that one makes it sound like they are avoiding it because they can’t be bothered to while the other actively avoids it because its bad.

          • Mesa@programming.dev
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            8 days ago

            I think that is the most “correct” interpretation of it. Maybe they’re saying that it’s been bent over time.

        • djmikeale@feddit.dk
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          8 days ago

          We have a similar saying in Denmark, something like “shoemakers kids always have holes in their shoes” but in this case it’s more about that the people in the profession don’t prioritize their own craft. I’ve seen this with electricians where whole house is done but electrical sockets aren’t installed but for IT I think it’s more about distrust towards developers (takes one to know one)

      • Techno-rat@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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        8 days ago

        Wooden spoons are better for cooking with cast iron pots and pans, which a blacksmith, being knowledgeable about metal, would be vey aware of.

        Just as the it person is way more aware of the pitfalls of smart tech than your average person

          • Techno-rat@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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            8 days ago

            Metal tools also scrape the bottom lining that forms over time off, which is a big no no when cooking with cast iron.

            • RampantParanoia2365@lemmy.world
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              7 days ago

              The seasoning? I seriously doubt that. People seem to think cast iron is more vulnerable than it is. You can wash it, too, just dry it off after.

              • Techno-rat@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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                8 days ago

                P sure (but not entirely) that thats for when you purposely want to remove the lining, fx for resale, to make it look brand new

                Havent personally heard chainmail reccomended tho, mostly heard of steel sponges, chainmail sounds way cooler tho lol

                • Korhaka@sopuli.xyz
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                  8 days ago

                  Depends how hard you scrape. Steel sponges with a lot of force will take you down to metal, chainmail might work nicely for cleaning stuck on food without damaging the coating too much but I haven’t used it.

                  Metal tools you need to really scrape at it to remove the coating, I don’t think it is something you could do by mistake.

        • Auli@lemmy.ca
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          8 days ago

          Sure but what us the downside? It us a huge field with everything from local to requiring the cloud. You can’t blanket it all together.

    • EvacuateSoul@lemmy.world
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      8 days ago

      “The cobbler’s kids have no shoes” in English.

      But this guy is saying he doesn’t trust technology not to spy or be vulnerable.

    • wheezy@lemmy.ml
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      8 days ago

      Yeah but I doubt that saying has ever been used to mean the blacksmith thinks metal spoons are bad. Right?

      It’s worth sharing but this post is more about the software engineer knows how much shit is spying on you.

    • smiletolerantly@awful.systems
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      8 days ago

      That ks for sharing this, this is fascinating.

      Maybe the underlying rule is: the more you know about something, the more you are aware of its flaws, making the alternatives you know less about more attractive?

      • wheezy@lemmy.ml
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        8 days ago

        I think there are definitely different applications of the phrase and different versions of it.

        As someone that does a “traditional” trade. I do work in leathercraft. My friends and family all have nice pieces I’ve made them. I’ve literally yet to make myself more than a belt. And it’s just a piece I didn’t like enough when it was done. So I remade another for the person I meant to give it to.

        Not that I wouldn’t like a nice piece for myself. But, it’s just a lot more fun to make something for someone else.

  • Owl@mander.xyz
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    8 days ago

    Homeassistant is cool though. Also most of my stuff would work without it, they just works better with it.

    • flying_sheep@lemmy.ml
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      8 days ago

      None of the devices I bought for it talk to the internet! Home assistant can control and even update the Shellys completely over the local network.

        • kittenzrulz123@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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          8 days ago

          Remember Home assistant =/= smart home nonsense

          I dont need some AI assistant to automatically manage my thermostat, I just want to be able to control it all using my own local server.

          • Taleya@aussie.zone
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            7 days ago

            There are people who tie gemini into their HA instance

            These people are insane.

      • hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works
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        8 days ago

        Any suggestions for someone tech savvy enough to run a proxmox server for a handful of services, to get started with home assistant?

        Can you replicate something like a Google home with voice commands?

        I may or may not be getting a new house soon. I’m good with electrical to replace switches with wireless ones. But what do you get? Where do you start and where do you end? What about the WAF?

        I saw LTT did smart switches in his house and it was a mess of incompatibilities.

        Any good resources? I don’t even know what I don’t know haha

        • acceptable_pumpkin@lemmy.world
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          8 days ago

          Look into ZWave and ZigBee mesh networks. I run Home Assistant with a couple hundred devices and integrations. ZWave tends to be my hardwired switches, and ZigBee tends to be my battery operated motion sensors, remotes, etc.

          Personally, I run Home Assistant on its native HAOS on a raspberry Pi. In addition to Home Assistant, I have lots of automations running in Node Red, a no/low code orchestration addon.

          For voice control, I’m playing with the Atom Echo.

          • FlyingCircus@lemmy.world
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            8 days ago

            Couple hundred?! Are most of those lights or something? Forgive me I’m totally ignorant about home automation.

            Is it a hobby to you or have you found significant time/energy savings? Or both?

            • acceptable_pumpkin@lemmy.world
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              8 days ago

              Part hobby, part time and energy savings. One thing I love about Home Assistant is the integrations with so many devices and services. I have smart switches., remotes, smart plugs, energy monitors, RGB bulbs, thermometers, etc.

              It’s a slippery slope of wanting to integrate absolutely everything! My doorbell, alarm system, thermostats, garage door, door locks, and so on.

              Many are local “smart devices” using ZWave and ZigBee, and others are cloud integrations with other services.

              I’ve gotten to a point where the Home Automation routines I rely on are so useful that I get annoyed if I ever have to do things “manually”.

              Couple examples:

              1. I have a remote by my bed that, when the goodnight button is pressed, turns off all the lights, sets the HVAC back to programmed mode, puts our computers to sleep, arms the alarm, locks the doors, and closes curtains.

              2. I have a button by my garage door that sets an “auto arm” toggle that opens the garage door, unlocks the door to the garage and the waits for me to close the garage, at which point it arms the alarm, turns off the lights, locks my computers, turns off the HVAC, closes curtains, locks doors, etc.

              • FlyingCircus@lemmy.world
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                7 days ago

                That’s pretty dope and I see how it could actually really help my ADHD if I had an “everything off” button. Thanks for replying.

        • Taleya@aussie.zone
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          7 days ago

          HAOS literally has a proxmox iso for home assistant. Slap that baby on.

          There are homebrew voice units, but you’ll need a beefier system than normal to process in house. If you have apple devices you can expose certain elements from HA to apple home (and keep others obscured) to use your watch / voice etc.

          There are a lot of home assistant communities and they are all very very friendly. It’s a massive learning curve and we’re all working together

        • parzival@lemmy.org
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          8 days ago

          I’d recommend using matter over thread, as I’ve had issues with ZigBee, although that might just be incompetence. I use smth by aqara for a thread bridge, and it all works great with home assistant.

        • LemmyFeed@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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          7 days ago

          Community scripts has home assistant, both lxc and VM options. Use the VM version and you can get HA up and running super quick.

          https://community-scripts.org/

          Also shout out to community scripts! If you run proxmox and aren’t using community scripts then you’re about to hate yourself for all the manual builds you’ve done.

      • marcos@lemmy.world
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        8 days ago

        I’ve been looking for some smart outlets, and it seems impossible to discover which ones can be used with normal well-known protocols and which can only be used through a phone app locked into a cloud service.

        • |IlI|lIIl|IlIll|Il|IllI|@lemmy.world
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          8 days ago

          Z-Wave & Zigbee devices.

          My favorites are made by Aeotec & Zooz.

          Local control, most use very little power and can either be plugged in or use a 1-3yr battery you swap out sparingly, and they communicate on a separate set of channels from your internet at low-latency so they don’t eat up internet bandwidth.

          • marcos@lemmy.world
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            8 days ago

            So, if I’m reading things right, anything that runs on Z-Wave or Zigbee will necessarily run locally, because those are mesh protocols?

            Anyway, thanks a lot. Those are really simple keywords to check.

            • |IlI|lIIl|IlIll|Il|IllI|@lemmy.world
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              8 days ago

              Yep.

              My favorite smart outlet switch though was recently sold out and it’s an Aeotec smart switch 7. Zooz makes something similar though I think.

              I’ve got it set up on Home Assistant so that whenever certain devices in my home are detected on or off via watt usage minimum changes I monitor on those smart switches, it toggles the Lutron Caseta (best smart light control there is) lights via commands for different rooms in my house.

              I also have things like waterproof outdoor gate sensors made by Zooz that are smaller than a single stick of gum where the small flat watch battery in it lasts for almost a year and it will alert me when the gate opens or closes, but only when I’m a certain distance away from the house’s geofence I’ve set up.

              You will also need an overall little USB stick to connect to your Home Assistant server device (like a NAS or Raspberry Pi) to control everything, but there’s one that’s made by Aeotec that does both Zigbee and Z-wave long range protocols. Z-Wave LR (long range) works really far too… like I think around a mile potentially, if you have a nice clear line of sight signal.

        • Dion Starfire@sh.itjust.works
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          8 days ago

          Check out the new IKEA Matter over Thread stuff. They have two smart plugs (an indoor single plug and an outdoor double plug). You can flash one of the esp-idf example images to an ESP32-C6 and plug it into your HA server to turn it into a Thread Border Router for under $10. Everything on Thread uses a fully local encrypted mesh network that by default has no Internet access (leave NAT64 turned off in the HA border router add-on).

          P.S.: Make sure to update the firmware on the devices (which HA can do), as several don’t act as routing end devices until after the first upgrade.

        • keyez@lemmy.world
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          7 days ago

          I have several US V2 plugs from athom.tech and they work great via home assistant. They just sit on WiFi don’t call home and are reliable through hoke assistant

        • Taleya@aussie.zone
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          7 days ago

          Zigbee.

          You will need an antenna /hub though. I use a sky connect antennae, it’s all locked into my house.

          If you have to go wifi, tplink /tapo literally have a “local only” mode when you firewall them out. The only issue is they warn you you can’t operate them unless you’re connected to your home wifi. Which is rather the point.

  • CorrectAlias@piefed.blahaj.zone
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    8 days ago

    I agree when it comes to most “smart” home devices. However, I wired an ESP32 to my heat pump for remote control and automation, which has been absolutely fantastic. Also, I use a ton of ZigBee and zwave, since those are not “smart” by themselves and are local-only.

    It’s the cloud bullshit that always breaks and spies on users that I hate.

    • Therefore@lemmy.world
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      8 days ago

      Yeah home built and programmed smart devices are the way to go. I’m addicted to the rush of making dumb appliances automated.

      The smartphone controlled aircon for $150 extra? Slap a $4 Esp in that. $400 to get sleek control of your central heating? $4 Esp. Turn on the ice maker on the commute home? You guessed it, $4 Esp.

      • Auli@lemmy.ca
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        8 days ago

        Where the hell are you getting 4 ESP. And no its not good for everything. I buy zwave switches and water sensors.

        • Anivia@feddit.org
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          8 days ago

          $2 is a normal price on Aliexpress for an Esp32 C3 super mini, $4 is almost expensive

        • Aceticon@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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          8 days ago

          Not the previous poster.

          A simple ESP8266 module from AliExpress is less than $4 (an ESP12F module - which is the FCC certified one with most I/O ports available - is $2), can be programmed with Arduino, has WiFi and that is more than enough for wireless home automation peripherals that are not supposed to do lots of processing (it will still easilly fit a REST interface for automated control and even a web interface for user control alongside it).

          That said, in order to power it unless you can somehow draw 3.3v from the device it’s attached to, you actually need more parts and that’ll add up to more than $4 unless you’re doing it with batteries (and design and assemble your own voltage regulator circuit which is not that hard and is cheap, or maybe get a slightly more expensive ESP module that comes with voltage regulation) - this works fine if your device sleeps most of the time and just wakes up once in a while to check some data from a server holding instructions for it. For an always one device, best IMHO to use a 3.3V wall power adaptor, which will cost at least $6 from AliExpress.

          The power considerations apply exactly the same for ESP32s.

      • SeductiveTortoise@piefed.social
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        8 days ago

        I wanted to do ESPify my fume hood for some time now, but I don’t really know where to start. Do you have some website/howto for me to get started? To be honest, I don’t really care about smarting up the actual extraction part. I just want to turn on and off the lights without finding the non-illuminated touch button on the black glass. Who designs crap like that?

        • Therefore@lemmy.world
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          8 days ago

          You need electrical experience, I wouldn’t recommend anyone to work with high voltages unless they knew what they were doing. The method depends on the device, every one is different. For the aircon unit the esp is an internal remote, so I spent time decoding that model’s IR codes and building a platform for reliable control via home assistant. I have fans around the house that use mains voltage motors with 3 speeds, those got an interlocked 3 channel relay board. The ice maker used digital logic, so the esp sits between the control board and the rest and intercepts button presses to keep track of state and the injects its own commands for remote control(not my work). If you are lucky there will be a guide on the internet you can apply to your specific device, otherwise you’ll have to work the project out solo from smaller guides.

          • SeductiveTortoise@piefed.social
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            7 days ago

            I just wanted to interfere with the button board, I’d guess this will run on 3.3 or 5 volts. Simulate the touch events so to speak.

            • Therefore@lemmy.world
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              7 days ago

              Yeah so you’d probably just be grounding the positive side of the button momentarily. I’m pretty sure I did that with a ducted heater remote once, if it’s 3.3 you can just attach it to a pin from your board, then send the pin low to press. 5v you might want a level shifter in between. Have you used esphome before/do you have home assistant? Then you can automate the press to a motion sensor or widget on your phone.

    • PhoenixDog@lemmy.world
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      8 days ago

      Why On Earth would you keep a gun NEXT to it!? That’s just asking for problems. That printer knows if it gets a hold of that gun, it’ll look like a suicide, not a murder.

  • Lucidlethargy@sh.itjust.works
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    8 days ago

    “no smart home crap” Yeah… That’s just a choice. I have two homegrown smarthome solutions that are amazing and complex without creating security holes.

    • Lemmee@sh.itjust.works
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      7 days ago

      You can tell it’s an IT guy’s home assistant if there’s no hardware that requires someone else’s cloud.

      My home automation philosophy is that everything in the house should work with or without internet. It’s going well so far.

      • howrar@lemmy.ca
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        7 days ago

        I’ll add that things should also fail gracefully. If something breaks, they should all revert back to working like the dumb equivalent. Dumb switches, dumb thermostat, etc.

          • blargh513@sh.itjust.works
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            6 days ago

            My home assistant is set up that way. If I turn it all off, the house is a little less awesome, but everythiing works fine. You just have to turn on/off lights and open/close doors yourself now. you’ll have to diddle with the thermostat and ceiling fans more too.

        • Passerby6497@lemmy.world
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          7 days ago

          Zigbee bulbs, third reality and sengeled (sp?) are most of what I have attached to my home assistant. Stay away from the WiFi shit tho

        • Taleya@aussie.zone
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          7 days ago

          Don’t do the lightbulbs (unless you rent). Do the power to the sockets.

          Smart lightbulbs are a fucking rort

        • Lemmee@sh.itjust.works
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          7 days ago

          Like the other user mentioned: depends on your setup.

          I have recessed lighting throughout my house, so swapping to bulbs for all of them would have been an expensive pain. So I opted for smart switches. I got innovelli reds, because they were the best there was at the time. You can get them with any protocol you want (zigbee/zwave/wifi)

          With a smart switch, you can control lots of lights with only one device. Originally I just added Shelly relays behind each switch, but I wanted the dimming capability of the innoveli.

          If you do still want bulbs, nothing beats hue. But they are by far the most expensive.

          • 123@programming.dev
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            7 days ago

            As an alternative, we have found bulbs that can run tasmota with the MQTT integration to be perhaps the most reliable part of our smart home (as long as the hardware already had a descent CRI). I’ve heard good things about ESP home too, but we have not tried it.

            If someone has some light bulbs that are laggy (due to cloud integrations) or a pain to use due to software, its worth checking out of tasmota or esp home can be installed on them to locally pair with something like home assistant. It turned a regretful purchase into a nice addition.

            With that said, we don’t buy connected devices any longer without checking internet and cloud requirements first.

            • Lemmee@sh.itjust.works
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              7 days ago

              Tasmota is awesome. I flashed all my early Shelly devices with it. But now the native Shelly firmware is amazing, and it allows you to turn on local mqtt only. So I’ve stopped using Tasmota for everything besides the few devices flashed early and behind my wall switches. (I’m too lazy to pull them out)

              Is it hard to flash bulbs with Tasmota? Don’t you usually need access to the pins? Or have an OTA option for updating the firmware?

              • 123@programming.dev
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                7 days ago

                The ones I had you could do it over the air, but some do require access to the pins. Even with soldering experience it is not approachable as bulbs are not packaged to be opened, it is part of why I check for offline or flash compatibility before buying as even the same “model” could have different hardware revisions. No info = avoid.

            • LowlandSavage@lemmy.ca
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              7 days ago

              I love my lutron Caseta gear. Integrates with home assistant and reverts to dumb. Expensive ass dimmer though, and they run on a proprietary hub.

        • Tinidril@midwest.social
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          7 days ago

          It depends on the rest of your setup, but I recommend going with zigbee or matter/thread for the connectivity. I definitely wouldn’t put any “smart” devices on my general purpose wifi. That stuff is never going to be secure. Also, consider if smart switches would work for you instead. That way you don’t have to pay the premium when a bulb burns out.

          • dai@lemmy.world
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            7 days ago

            Yeah I’m stuck between those two options however it’s for much later down the road in my case. House needs a renovation but finances don’t allow just yet.

            I have a mix of TP Link wifi globes, IKEA ZigBee and Hue Zigbee throughout the house. Zigbee are controlled by a SLZB 06 and ZHA / MQTT. By far the Hue are the best I’ve tested and have been in service for around 10 years.

      • ragas@lemmy.ml
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        7 days ago

        This is why I’m conflicted about getting online weather information.

        • Lemmee@sh.itjust.works
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          7 days ago

          Pretty hard to replace weather info without internet. I don’t have any automations that rely on weather info, and I have a cheap rain gauge that a friend 3d printed for me. It uses a simple zigbee door sensor to detect rain accumulation. Pretty clever device (not my invention.)

          So eventually I want to automate the watering of my garden, and I intend to use the rain sensor to help there. But honestly, it never rains in the summer here in the PNW, so my 3rd reality moisture sensors are more useful than actual weather data.

    • hessenjunge@discuss.tchncs.de
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      8 days ago

      For real! HA* & Zigbee or I seriously doubt the credibility of any „I work in IT“-claim.

      *one of OSS contenders is fine.

        • SirQuack@feddit.nl
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          7 days ago

          I’m using Matter with HA, works just fine. For cheap sensors you can look at Frient or Shelly.

          • Taleya@aussie.zone
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            7 days ago

            Its not a question of compatability, matter has some inherent security flaws i’m not trucking with

        • hessenjunge@discuss.tchncs.de
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          7 days ago

          IKEA is not bad but I actually prefer (whitelabel) Tuya as long as those run on AA(A).

          They might even be cheaper outside the US right now. Ironically thanks to their tariffs.

          • Taleya@aussie.zone
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            7 days ago

            I’ve got a few of the zigbee temp/ humidity sensors, definitely better than the ikea variant. And the ikea sockets are stupidly sized and completely cockblock a standard gpo, hate that.

            Still hunting a decent AQI, will probably have to get off my arse and build one

  • null@lemmy.org
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    8 days ago

    The fact these companies can release a $200 router or a $1000 smartphone and completely stop all security updates after only a few years is insane.

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      8 days ago

      It should be regulated similar to how cars are regulated - with mandatory service and spare parts for many years.

      • trollercoaster@sh.itjust.works
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        8 days ago

        Cars aren’t exactly a good example on how to curb enshittification, as the car industry pioneered enshittification and found a way around regulations every time so far.

        • Mihies@programming.dev
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          8 days ago

          While that might be so, I can still buy original spare parts for my 25 years old car and I could still service it at official repair shop if I wanted to.

          • Rooster326@programming.dev
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            8 days ago

            The “official repair shop” isn’t the issue.

            It would be third party repair shops. And amazingly you can.

            Right to repair has done some good in this world

            • Mihies@programming.dev
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              7 days ago

              Sure, I can also drive it to any repair shop where they can buy repair parts and replace them or do whatever it takes to repair it. I can even replace the light bulbs myself, though thus part is not trivial :S

        • Damage@feddit.it
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          8 days ago

          Yeah but, at least in my country, cars can’t be on the road (which would be the internet in this case), without passing the periodic inspection.

    • Lucidlethargy@sh.itjust.works
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      8 days ago

      There’s also a big company called Ubiquiti that sells overly expensive trash.

      Their switches don’t even mirror more than a single port.